Brunch / ££ / 8.5/10

I was recently asked to recommend somewhere good for brunch in the city centre for friends with pushchairs. I struggled to think of anywhere reliable with enough room and kept on coming back to the out of city ‘cafes’ that offer more space and in most cases better food/service/atmosphere. I replied with ‘If you go out of the city centre, The Atrium in Radcliffe is really nice’ and decided to add it to my review list. I bowled up on the sunniest Saturday of the year so far (this is my fair warning that the photos suffered as a result) 30 minutes after The Atrium opened and it was BUSY. We took a table near the window and scanned the menu as the place buzzed. Despite the hustle the staff are really helpful and attentive, especially with high chairs, where to put your pram and being delightful to all children there. This kindness comes from the top, the owner took our order and we were bathed in the warmth of the sunshine and the service.

The breakfast menu is concise but not traditional. I went for the Rosti Bun with a side of carrot and pistachio cake and The Northerner went for the smashed avocado with added streaky bacon/pancetta. The Atrium have recently expanded their bakery selection and the cakes and bread proved tempting, we added a loaf to take home. This is a brave move as the risk of carrying these stock levels and potential for wastage are high, but I was happy to see the cakes flying out.

On to the food. The Rosti bun was sublime, perfectly crispy potato cakes with no oiliness and a warm, soft buttery centre with crispy bacon and indian spiced brown sauce. The fresh coriander inside gave the breakfast bun a fragrant finish and the spiced sauce cut straight through the richness of the potato. The bacon on both dishes was all 100% crispy without being cremated. The Atrium know how to cook bacon well and construct dishes that offer something appealing to even a staunch traditionalist like me.

The only complaint came with the avocado which, in some places, was smashed to a smooth paste and in other places had big chunks of avocado. The Northerner said it was quite strange to eat, I feel the same way about ‘smashed’ new potatoes so can understand where he was coming from. My only grumble was that the fresh orange came from a bottle and wasn’t the properly squeezed stuff that so many other places offer (and I have become addicted too). Probably better for my blood sugar anyway. The Atrium has been open for over 5 years now and there are a few paint scuffs and signs of wear but the giant glass roof window, beautiful features such as the traditional vault and window art are very stylishly done. It is a lovely space to spend time and money.

The Atrium offers breakfast, lunch and dinner along a similar theme with interesting menu choices that are above and beyond what you would expect to find out of the city centre. I found myself wondering if this is the first of a small chain as its offering would inevitably be succcesful in other suburbs. In the meantime the people of Radcliffe on Trent are lucky to have this gem on their doorstep.

FAMILY – The Atrium are well set up for children and toddlers, there is a seperate baby change toilet, high chairs, a kids menu and everything is on one level. The staff are friendly and helpful and went out of their way to find us somewhere for the pushchair and move chairs to accomodate the high chair. A great choice to a family meal.